17.05.2017 - 19.05.2017 32 °C
It was a leisurely pack up this morning as we left Broome around 8am and made our way up the Cape Leveque road. The first 14km is bitumen and then it turns into a mix of red sand and flat rock and the width varies from a one lane ditch to wide flat open sided areas. Being early in the dry season the road had been graded recently and was in pretty good condition with the exception of some corrugated sections near the end of the dirt. We were able to sit on about 70km most of the way taking it easy as we weren’t in a hurry.
The dirt section is around 85km long and then it reverts back to bitumen. Once you get to the turn off to Middle Lagoon there is 34km of sandy track to negotiate to get to the campground. This road was also in good condition and an easy drive taking around 40 minutes. We had pre-booked a camp site called Bluey’s which was a large elevated site overlooking the lagoon with great views of the long beautiful beach and rocky headland protecting the small bay. The site had large shady trees to camp under with an open section for the solar panels, a fire pit and water tap. There were also bushes which gave protection from the wind, although there was very little wind on the three days we were there. This site was away from the main camp area and very private with a short walk to flushing toilets, solar heated showers, laundry and filtered water taps.
The campground was not very busy when we were there and the popular camp sites seemed to be on the ridge/clifftop overlooking the western beach. We could have camped here but these sites are very close together with no shade and exposed to the full force of any wind. Another reason not to camp there is the idiots that run generators all day spoiling any peace while looking at the nice view of the beach and ocean. Our pick of the sites at Middle Lagoon would be Bluey’s or Lino’s, both huge private protected sites with amazing views
Middle Lagoon is a beautiful place, the beaches are pristine and littered with a huge variety of shells, the ocean calm and clear, and the place has a sense of peace about it that makes it impossible not to relax here. The only down side for us was the midges and mosquitoes which snuck up on us the first night, before we realised we were being bitten.
There are great walks to do here, the lagoon beach is a long sandy curved beach which finishes at a tidal creek and rocky headland. The creek is lined with mangroves and trees and the water is clear with the huge tides flowing in and out. This beach is also great for swimming but I wouldn’t swim down at the far end near the creek as there is a croc warning sign at the end of the dirt track that goes to the creek.
If you walk around to the right past the beach in front of the ridge you come to a track which goes around through the bush until it comes to a stand of pandanus above an isolated beach with stunning rock formations. The morning walk we did along this beach was amazing and will be a highlight of our big lap.
I fished off the rocks at the lagoon one evening and managed to catch a trevally and was bitten off after a short fight with something large. There were a few boats launching at the lagoon and heading out to sea but I am not sure how they went with the fishing. The other great thing about Middle Lagoon was the ability to have a camp fire. We collected firewood beside the road on the way in and had a fire 2 out of the 3 nights we were there. Food always tastes so good when cooked on the open fire and we had chicken casserole one night and roasted potatoes and damper on the other night. Delicious
We really enjoyed Middle Lagoon and if it wasn’t for the bities we would have stayed for a week. This was one of those special places and one that we will definitely return to for a longer stay in the future.